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Amadablam Expedition
Ama Dablam is a beautiful mountain, located almost due south of Everest and Lhotse in the Khumbu region. Actually Ama Dablam means "The mother mountain" so it's also regarded as mother mountain and female. It stands among many 22,000 to 24,000 foot peaks that surround the high valleys of this region, yet stands out by way of its classic beauty: It is a steep pyramid of ice with vertical walls and sharp, exposed ridges. And from the summit of Amadablam mountain all round mountains of Khumbu region and both way valley's can be viewed, which is a very interesting and exciting moment.
On the summit there is space for about one tent so there will be no problems to stay on the summit from 1/2 to 1 hour to enjoy the views and sunshine from the summit of Ama Dablam. Actually 15 to 25 days climbing period would be very nice for this mountain because we will have to wait the weather conditions also sometimes for the climbing and enjoy the view from the summit.
Detail itinerary for Amadablam Expedition:
Day 01:Arrival in Kathmandu( 1,520m.)
After arrival we will be met and taken to our Hotel. Kathmandu is a strange mixture of Tibetan Buddhism, Hinduism and Western influence. There are many great attractions and sightseeing tours can be arranged with a guide accompanying you (optional ) or perhaps you can explore around on your own.
Day 02 :Kathmandu Valley sightseeing
At leisure in Kathmandu. While the guides sort out the expedition paper work, you will be able to explore this fascinating medieval city, crowded bazaars, Hindu and Buddhist temples, shrines. It is a wonderful mixture of an ancient, colonial and modern architecture.
Day 03 :Expedition preparation
Free day in Kathmandu.. This day in Kathmandu is an opportunity to hire any pieces of mountaineering equipment you do not already have.
Day 04: Flight to Lukla 2800m & Trek to Phakding
The 40 minutes flight from Kathmandu to Lukla is one of the most spectacular flights in the world. The sixteen seated TWIN OTTER, takes us towards East into the heart of the Sherpa country, giving us breathtaking views of the mountain peaks of the Khumbu region, including Mt. Everest and the alluring Ama Dablam. The aircraft landing on this tiny air-strip at Lukla to put in simple words is - it is going to be madly exciting - getting chills up your spine!.
No-sooner after the landing, we will be setting off along the famous trail walking towards North-west and descending to the river side at Phakding 2,652m. Continuing further through attractive fir forests to Chumda and set up our camps for the night (walking approximately 5 hours).
Day 05: Trek to Namche Bazzar(3450m).
After early breakfast, we begin climbing up the steep hill towards Namche Bazaar. If the sky is clear we can see the glorious Mt. Everest the tallest mountain of the world and next the Lhotse. We will reach to Namche after approximately six hours. It's a prosperous and largest town in the Khumbu region populated by the Sherpas who all resembles with the Tibetan people in looks and cultures also the same. The town is vibrant with many well stocked shops, typical restaurants and hotels, as a whole it all looks marvelous with the breathtaking close views of the snow-capped mountains all around. Some of us may likely face little problem in breathing as Namche is 3,445 meters above the sea level., therefore, we will spend two nights here for acclimatization.
Day 06 :Rest day in Namche Bazaar..
Day 07 :Trek to Tyangboche 3,863m.
No sooner it is morning we have the fantastic views of Mt. Ama Dablam and other mountain ranges all around us. We continue trekking heading North-East along the side of Dudh Koshi river. The trail descends going through moss and rhododendron forests to the river bank leading further along the river side to Phungithanga. After crossing the river Dudh Koshi over a bridge at this point, the trail lead climbing up a hill to the saddle top to Thyangboche. Thyangboche is the main important monastery in Khumbu region. Old (the first original one) Thyangboche monastery was destroyed by accidental fire in the year 1989. The main village is situated at the base of Mt. Kangtaiga and from the spur of this ridge top we can have the excellent panoramic views of the main mountain peaks including - Mt. Everest, Lhotse and the Ama Dablam. We settle down for the night camping near by the monastery. (walking involves 6 hours).
Day 08: Trek to Amadablam base camp.
Trekking for about 2-3 hours up the valley heading towards the Everest Base Camp, our trail lead turning right then climbing up further to next valley and to our Base Camp at an elevation of 4,570 meters. We camp along the excellent spot from where majority of the climbing routes are visible. The atmosphere naturally will be pleasant; in cool serenity. The porters will be busy then, with loads for next couple of week time. Remaining staff at the Base Camp include - a Cook, Sirdar, other staff, and the Liaison Officer.
Day 09 TO 24: Ascent of Amadablam
We have to understand and be flexible with the time, as it would not be possible to stick to our day to day itinerary exactly during ascent period, due to unpredictable weather conditions in the mountains. As a whole the group will be working out on the mountains. The MAIN TEAM will SPLIT into groups - the climbing group and task group. The groups - while group 'A' is studying the route and fixing ropes the other group 'B' will be carrying necessary loads to higher camps. The route description is as such, of the expedition team (led by Ray Delaney) that have scaled Mt. Ama Dablam during the year 1990.
From the Base Camp
--- Route leads through grassy ridges heading eastward to a broad saddle. From this point we can see the Mingbo La (high pass). We now head to North direction climbing up the rocky grounds then across the boulders to a ridge, a site for Camp I at an elevation of 5,705 meters. Here, there are 5-6 natural platforms suitable for pitching up tents.
From Camp I
--- Cross a rocky bowl (tricky if snow covered) until, below two rock fingers, then move on to the ridge proper. Climbing the ridge involves rock climbing of severe standard with steps of VS (USA 5.6) Camp II is at the top of a yellow tower, which gives one of the hardest pitches on the climb at VS/Hard VS (5.8).
From Camp II
--- Skirt a red rock bluff on the East and follow a ramp line to a gray tower. Move into the ramp (some stone fall danger) and climb to an amphitheater. Continue up a broad gully formed between the gray tower and the lower rock buttress and climb a snow slope to 'Santa's Grotto' at the start of the mushroom ridge. Follow the mushroom ridge to a crevasse in the upper face, which offers fantastic site. Climb the snow / ice slope to the right of the face, then follow mixed ground to the top of the highest hanging glacier. An ice crest now leads in a magnificent position to the summit. We have the glorious - grand views!.
Day 25 TO 27 :Trek back to Lukla .
Overnight Camp.
Day 28:Fly back to Kathmandu.
Transfer to the hotel. Time for relaxation..
Day 29: Free day in Kathmandu
Day 30: Departure from Kathmandu
Cost Inclusive For Amadablam Expedition
- Accommodation in Kathmandu with Bed & Breakfast at 2 star Hotel
- Permit fee of Ama Dablam 6812m. Peak
- Food for Trekking and expedition period
- Expedition crew: Climbing Guide, Cook, Cook helper
- Porters or Yak Lukla to Base camp & Base camp to Lukla
- Kathmandu – Lukla – Kathmandu flight with Cargo
- Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison officer, expedition crew
- Insurance for Nepalese expedition crew
- 1 tent for 1 person till Base Camp
- Mat, dining tent, Toilet tent, Mess tent, Store tent, Table and chairs
- Local transportation in Kathmandu (Airport-hotel-airport)
- Emergency Oxygen, Mask and regulator only base camp, if use pay it.
- Well come dinner.
- Walkie Talkie permit & personal satellite phone permit
- Oxygen & Mask -regulator If necessary
- Personal equipments for trekking
- Personal & medical Insurance of expedition
- Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu
- Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter incase needed
- Oxygen & Mask -regulator If necessary
- Personal equipment for climbing
- Personal expenses
- Bar Bills & beverage
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